A Torre del Greco coral house, founded 1855 — six generations of Neapolitan coral, cameos and mother-of-pearl worked since the Bourbon court; the atelier and small museum share the Galleria Umberto salon.
Best for Neapolitan red coral and cameos worked by hand.
Marco and Antonella D'Auria founded their San Gregorio Armeno workshop in 2011, with Marco creating nativity figures and Antonella dressing them according to the Neapolitan 1700s canon. The shop also makes corni portafortuna (lucky horn charms) and Pulcinella masks and statues.
Best for Neapolitan nativity figures and pulcinella masks
Fiorenzo Auricchio's workshop on Vesuvius' slope — 25 hand operations per shirt, the summit of Neapolitan shirtmaking; any collar, including one-piece, cut bespoke.
Naples textile house founded 1956 by Livio De Simone (b. 1920), whose hand-painted, water-dyed prints made him a fixture of 1960s-70s Capri fashion and a fabric collaborator of Emilio Pucci; now run by his daughter Benedetta.
Best for Hand-painted resort prints.
Livio De Simone was born in Naples in 1920 and left a career as a lawyer to pursue design, establishing his own factory in 1956. He showed collections at Palazzo Pitti in Florence and dressed film figures including Audrey Hepburn and Elsa Martinelli, becoming closely associated with Capri's high society through the 1960s and 70s. He also designed fabrics for, and partnered with, Emilio Pucci in staging fashion shows during the 1950s. His signature technique -- hand-painting fabric freehand with water-based dyes -- produced particularly vivid, brilliant color and remains the distinctive trait the brand is still known for. After his death, the company passed first to his wife Graziella, who had led the brand's commercial side, and then to their daughter Benedetta. The house continues to operate out of Naples, working from a showroom and separate registered-office and production addresses.
Neapolitan tie house founded in 1948 by Mario Ulturale in a home workshop producing semi-finished ties; his son Vincenzo (b.1957) opened the first full made-to-measure workshop in 1985. Known for handmade seven-fold ties and a superstition-referencing cornetto charm sewn into the tail; now also in Rome and Milan.
Best for Lucky-charm seven-fold ties.
Ulturale's history begins just after the Second World War, when Mario Ulturale set up a small tailoring operation inside his own home in Naples in 1948, producing semi-finished ties for other workshops rather than finished retail products. His son Vincenzo, born in 1957, grew up inside that trade and eventually took the business further, opening the company's first proper workshop in 1985 — the point at which Ulturale began assembling complete, made-to-measure ties under its own name rather than supplying components to others.
The house's best-known product is its seven-fold tie: a Neapolitan construction method in which a single piece of silk is folded — three folds on one side, four on the other — without any interlining, a technique prized for drape and hand-finishing skill rather than for using extra material. Ulturale is also associated with a small superstition-referencing detail, a cornetto (horn charm), historically sewn into the tail of some of its ties, and with novelty pieces like its '00 Tiè' model.
Originally a single Naples workshop and boutique, Ulturale has since added retail locations in Rome and Milan, while keeping its ties handmade rather than machine-assembled.