Mario Buccellati opened his Milan goldsmith house in 1919, developing hand-engraving techniques such as rigato's parallel lines and tulle engraving that turns gold into lace. The house is now led by the fourth generation, Andrea and Lucrezia Buccellati.
Best for Hand-engraved gold and heirloom silver.
Mario Buccellati opened in Milan in 1919 and D'Annunzio, his most flamboyant client, called him "the Prince of Goldsmiths." The nickname stuck because the work was unmistakable: gold treated as fabric. Buccellati's engravers use techniques the Renaissance would recognize — rigato's parallel lines that make metal shimmer like silk, tulle engraving that turns gold into lace — executed with tools essentially unchanged in a century.
The house is a dynasty in the literal sense. Gianmaria Buccellati carried his father's craft through the twentieth century; today Andrea Buccellati oversees creation with his daughter Lucrezia, the fourth generation. The signatures compound across formats — the Macri bracelets, honeycomb Tulle rings, Ornato silverware that sets embassy tables, and the annual one-of-a-kind cocktail rings that collectors treat as a vintage.
Since 2019 the maison has been part of Richemont, its ateliers still in Italy, still hand-engraving. In an industry of polished surfaces, Buccellati sells texture — the only house whose gold you recognize by touch.
Private appointments cover new engagement rings as well as redesigning inherited jewellery. Clients can bring an older piece, discuss stones and setting changes, then receive a quote for a custom commission.
Best for Milan jewellery house designing gold rings, necklaces, bracelets
Milanese jewelry house founded in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, credited with pioneering prêt-à-porter fine jewelry in Italy; owned by the Rabolini family until Kering acquired it in 2013. Its Nudo ring — a bare faceted gemstone in a four-claw gold setting — is its signature design.
Best for Nudo rings and colored-stone everyday luxury.
Pomellato was founded in Milan in 1967 by Pino Rabolini (1936-2018), who came from a family with a background in goldsmithing but wanted to move fine jewelry away from its traditional, occasion-only role. Rather than pieces reserved for formal events, Rabolini designed jewelry meant to be worn as part of daily life — an approach the brand and Italian press later described as prêt-à-porter jewelry, borrowing ready-to-wear language from fashion. Early pieces were reportedly inspired by women from Milan's creative circles who frequented Bar Jamaica, a well-known meeting spot in the city's Brera district. The house built its identity on colored gemstones and soft, wearable gold work rather than the diamond-centric formality of traditional high jewelry. In 2001 Pomellato introduced the Nudo ring, its now-signature design: a large faceted colored stone held by a simple four-prong gold setting with no pavé or additional stonework, letting the color and cut of the gem stand on its own; the line has since extended across rings, earrings and other jewelry in numerous stone and gold-tone combinations. The Rabolini family controlled Pomellato through its holding company RA.MO until 2013, when the French luxury group Kering acquired the house. Pomellato continues to produce from its own atelier in Milan.
Verga 1947 is a fourth-generation Milanese watch and jewellery house that opened its first boutique outside Milan on Portofino's waterfront at Calata Marconi 45, carrying Hublot, Girard-Perregaux, Grand Seiko and Pomellato. The roughly 40-square-metre space also offers Verga's own pre-owned watch selection.