Ame no Tawaraya

Ame no Tawaraya has made jiro-ame -- a thick, amber malt syrup boiled down from rice and barley -- in Kanazawa's Kobashi-machi district since 1830, making it one of the city's oldest continuously operating confectioners. According to the shop's own account, the syrup was first developed after its founder saw local mothers unable to produce enough milk to nurse their infants; jiro-ame, naturally sweet and nutrient-dense, was formulated as a substitute food for newborns, and for generations afterward it was given to nursing mothers, pregnant women and the convalescent to help them regain strength, a use documented by the Ishikawa Prefecture Food Association among the region's traditional foodstuffs. The syrup itself, made without refined sugar, can be eaten directly off a spoon or folded into savory cooking as a natural sweetener for vegetables, fish and meat. The shop expanded the same base ingredient into two further forms: Amenko, soft kneaded granules, and Tawarakko, made by reducing jiro-ame further until it hardens into an easy-to-lick candy sold as Kanazawa's signature souvenir sweet, marketed under the name Okoshi Ame. Now run by president Hideaki Tawara, the shop continues to work from its original Kobashi-machi address, nearly two centuries after it began making syrup for babies who could not otherwise be fed.