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Issey Miyake

Tokyo / Online

What Issey Miyake is known for

The master of pleats and technological fabric innovation. From Bao Bao bags to Pleats Please — Japanese fashion as wearable architecture.

Issey Miyake treated clothing as a technology problem with a poet's deadline. From 1970 in Tokyo his studio pursued one idea — "a piece of cloth," the garment born from a single plane — through innovations the industry is still metabolizing: Pleats Please (1993), garments pleated after cutting so they spring eternally back to shape, pack like paper and never wrinkle; A-POC ("A Piece Of Cloth"), clothes engineered as continuous tubes of fabric the wearer cuts free.

The Bao Bao bag put the research in every train carriage — a mesh of rigid triangles that collapses and reforms like origami architecture. Steve Jobs' black turtleneck was Miyake's; the designer made him roughly a hundred.

Miyake died in 2022, but the house was always built as a studio rather than a signature — the Miyake Design Studio's teams carry the lines forward, and the Reality Lab keeps prototyping. Japanese fashion's great optimist: where his peers wielded black, Miyake pleated joy.

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