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Francesco Smalto

Paris / Online

What Francesco Smalto is known for

Paris couture tailoring house founded in 1962 by Francesco Smalto, born in Reggio Calabria in 1927. Known for the suspender shirt, the white tuxedo and a distinctive upward-angled 'fish mouth' lapel; clients included Francois Mitterrand and King Hassan II of Morocco.

Francesco Smalto was born in Reggio Calabria in 1927 and began tailoring in his hometown, reportedly completing his first garment at age 14. He later worked in Paris under Camps de Luca before founding his own house in February 1962, initially on Rue de la Boetie, selling exclusively made-to-measure suits. His business expanded in 1970 with a new address on Rue Francois 1er, coinciding with a clientele increasingly drawn from film and entertainment circles. Smalto is credited with several signature innovations, including the suspender shirt, the white tuxedo, and the house's distinctive 'fish mouth' lapel - a narrower notch that angles upward. His client list extended into politics, notably French president Francois Mitterrand and King Hassan II of Morocco. Smalto died in 2015 at 87; the house continues under new creative leadership.

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