Why it belongs in ORBIS
Lucien Pellat-Finet, born in Nice and trained as a freelance stylist for Thierry Mugler and Chanel, founded his eponymous label in 1994 at age 49, establishing a Parisian cult brand built on subversive luxury knitwear.
Lucien Pellat-Finet, born in Nice and trained as a freelance stylist for Thierry Mugler and Chanel, founded his eponymous label in 1994 at age 49, establishing a Parisian cult brand built on subversive luxury knitwear. The label's signature offering—extremely high-quality cashmere sweaters embellished with intarsia symbols including marijuana leaves, peace signs, and especially skulls occasionally set with crystals—challenged prevailing notions that cashmere must be conservative and traditional. Pellat-Finet contracted intarsia knitters from Edinburgh, known globally for premium cashmere production, to execute designs that merged technical mastery with provocative visual language. His pieces consistently commanded prices exceeding $2,000, demonstrating that luxury fiber could express irreverence alongside exclusivity. Pellat-Finet died on February 26, 2024, at age 78. The label was acquired in 2020 by Thierry Gillier, creative director and CEO of Zadig & Voltaire, who renamed it Pellat-Finet and continues producing high-end carded cashmere sweaters.